Long-Tail Vs. Cable Cast-on: Which Foundation Technique Actually Works Best?
Q1: Why does my long-tail cast-on flare outward at the bottom of the sweater?
A1: Flaring happens when stitches sit too far apart on the right needle during loop creation. Keep stitches resting closely together on the needle shaft, without jamming them on top of one another. Resist the urge to use a needle two sizes larger; larger needles only add excess yarn slack, making flaring worse.
Q2: Can I join circular needles immediately after a cable cast-on?
A2: Yes, and the cable method makes joining in the round easier. Because it forms a dense, cord-like edge, the stitches resist twisting along the cable far better than a loose knitted cast-on. Check that your loops face inward along the cord before working the joining stitch.
Q3: How do I make a long-tail edge extra stretchy for cuff-down socks?
A3: Space your stitches out along the needle shaft by roughly the width of a stitch as you cast on. You can also try the twisted German cast-on (alternating Norwegian method), which draws slack from the bottom thumb strand to boost horizontal stretch to nearly 50%.
Q4: Do I have to count the slip knot as the first stitch?
A4: Yes, in standard patterns, the initial slip knot counts as stitch number one. If you dislike the blunt knot on the corner of your work, use a slip-knot-free slingshot mount, which relies on tension alone to hold the first two loops in place.
